The Other Critics

Aperto Serves ‘an All-Star Plate For Gland Fans’; Khyber’s Brisket Is ‘the Best Barbecue’ in Town

• At Narberth’s Aperto, Craig LaBan would have preferred a “grace note of something green” over the gnocchi served with the “impossibly soft” and “almost feathery” slow-cooked veal cheeks. Similarly, the hummus served with “an otherwise perfect chicken breast” made it seem like “slicing into chicken over pasty quicksand,” and subsequently another “poor choice.” Still, the sweetbread special was “an all-star plate for gland fans,” and the grouper was “an excellent piece of seared fresh fish.” [Inquirer]

• “Wonky Italian can’t detract from the stuffed “handkerchiefs’” filling of smooth, mild mascarpone whipped with sweet green peas,” in the fazzolletti pasta served up at Haddon Heights’ Anthony’s Creative Italian Cuisine. The “nicely cooked seafood” in the traditional cioppino “swam in a thin (but not thin-flavored) tomato sauce greened with fresh chopped herbs.” Though “generous” in portion, the special of striped bass “came off a little pricey.” A “bowl of blackberry sorbet” could have been “a shade less sweet.” [Courier-Post]

• Two Eat Philly checks out the Khyber Pass Pub’s Southern Fried fare and proclaim the “generous three pieces” of Memphis-style fried chicken “delicious.” Even though they were prepared sans meat, the collard greens were “spicy and rich, while still maintaining their deep earthy flavor.” The Khyber Gumbo was “rich with the flavors of multiple kinds of meat, with lots of cayenne pepper for a slow burn,” and the brisket sandwich was the “best barbecue” available “around town.” [Two Eat Philly]

Aperto Serves ‘an All-Star Plate For Gland Fans’; Khyber’s