Mike Sula joins the chorus of praise for simplicity, laidback atmosphere, and all the other ways that Mark and Liz Mendez’s Vera is not Carnivale. “A whole meal could indeed be made simply from a few glasses of leathery Black Slate garnacha and the chef’s tripe, morcilla, and garbanzos, an offal plate so textured and soulful I had to order it on two separate visits. It’s a dish whose disparate elements are harmonized perfectly—crispy iron-fortified sausage coins spread across nutty legumes that mingle with the silky, funky flavor sponge of the honeycomb reticulum absorbing the tomatoey sofrito.” Even as the kitchen turns out winter dishes, he says “the fish dishes are some of the most vivid, almost springlike in their buoyancy: a formation of cured anchovies dressed minimally with pickled garlic and vegetal celery leaves; black cod fillet topped with green olive tapenade spiked with lemon zest; a tangle of grilled octopus inflamed with smoky pimentón… It’s going to be thrilling to watch [the Mendezes] fully express themselves in ways they never could as soldiers in the erstwhile Kleiner Empire.” [Reader]
Nick Kindelsperger says Devil Dawgs near DePaul has only been open since 2009, but it’s “a nearly flawless Chicago stand… taking the time to hand-cut fries, use natural casing hot dogs, and cook fresh beef. The burgers come in for particular, Nagrantesque praise: “Looking like a love child between White Castle and Steak n’ Shake, these tiny smashed burgers are housed in soft little buns which make ordering more than one a requirement.” Curiously, he makes no mention of the similarity in names to a now-departed DePaul place, Demon Dogs— maybe because Devil Dawgs seems so much better. [Serious Eats Chicago]
Titus at Smokin’ Chokin’ and Chowing With the King goes old school South Side Chicago by visiting… well, actually it’s in North Hammond, Indiana. But it’s a classic steel mill era, Eastern European meets supper club spot: the Cavalier Inn, where he winds up talking pierogi with the locals. [Smokin’ Chokin’ and Chowing With the King]
But our favorite review of the week is a cartoon and blog post about a visit to Yusho, by Sarah Becan. Follow the link and check it out; h/t @ChicagoSE. [Sauceome]
