The Other Critics

Oliver Strand Is So-so on Forcella; Robert Sietsema Finds ‘Perfect Greek’ at Gregory’s 26 Corner Taverna

Lauren Shockey is underwhelmed by Onegin, a new upscale Russian-inspired restaurant in Greenwich Village, opining that “only a few of the mains justify their inflated price tags.” Her suggestion? “Stick to the far more flavorful starters,” such as the charcuterie platter ($24), or a “refreshing” chopped beet salad ($12). [VV]

Oliver Strand visits Forcella, the New York comeback for Giulio Adriani, the Neapolitan pizzaiolo formerly of Olio Pizza e Più. He’s earned reputation for his montara, “a margherita made with a crust shaped and flash-fried before being topped and finished in the wood-burning oven,” and that pie “pulls it off.” Other pizzas are “mixed”: Margherita regina is a “watery mess,” but fuorigrotta, with mozzarella, pecorino, and arugula, “tastes like a vacation on the Amalfi Coast.” [NYT]

Eric Asimov loves the main-course pasta dishes at twelve-year-old Lupa Osteria Romana, calling them “as satisfying as they are elemental,” but he warns against the inconsistency of its antipasti and appetizers. For dessert he suggests the olive oil torte with roasted pears or a “refreshing” sorbetto. The Roman-style restaurant receives one star. [NYT]

Robert Sietsema raves about Gregory’s 26 Corner Taverna, saying he hasn’t “tasted such perfect Greek country fare in a dozen years.” “For $20, you can have a plate of baby goat or baby lamb,” though the critic likes the vegetarian options, too, such as the “lovely” grilled pepper, which you can order with olive oil and herbs or stuffed with feta. Finish up with baklava. [VV]

Steve Cuozzo is not a fan of STK Midtown, calling it a “toilet experience.” He does concede that the steak is “good” and also enjoys the spaghetti in a Dungeness crab shell, but as for the “scorching-hot” rice cakes, he wonders, “Do you use a fork, fingers or a glove?” [NYP]

Oliver Strand Is So-so on Forcella; Robert Sietsema Finds ‘Perfect