An LTHForum poster named John Lenart, who also has a blog called “Lesser Cuts,” went to opening night at Goosefoot, the new BYO restaurant in Lincoln Square from longtime Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent. He’s now posted the first word about this venture, which has been regarded as a bit of a risky one inasmuch as it’s far and away the most expensive dining spot ever to open in a neighborhood better known for ethnic cuisine and burger bars. Lenart’s review is, not to put too fine a point on it, a rave— “This isn’t the place for everyone, but if you’re looking for fine dining this place is among the top 5 or so in the city if you ask me.” All of which suggests that Goosefoot, which wasn’t even on the radar in a season of high profile openings until recently, could wind up being one of the most notable of the year.
Lenart praises the service and atmosphere as being as professional as you’d expect from a veteran of Les Nomades— “Gorgeous wood tables with stainless pedestals adorn the room set with sleek wood chairs and banquets with gold backs along the walls… service is very smooth and personal, yet professional.”
The food seems to be contemporary, slightly modernist American with a considerable emphasis on local sources; among the courses:
Chestnut soup/smoke/white alba mushrooms/truffle essence— This decadent soup was more mushroom than chestnut but wow! Topped with a truffle foam (super light and not pretentious at all) and garnished with mushrooms and skillfully cut potato brunoise.
Roasted quail/spiced beluga lentil/ginger/compressed apple— This half quail was gorgeously pan roasted, butchered and set atop amazingly flavorful beluga lentils with an intense ginger flavor. It seemed like it shouldn’t work but it really did.
Pleasant ridge reserve/celery truffle caponata/almond— This composed cheese course was really mind bending. The firm, thin slices of slightly salty cheese sat atop a super light mascrapone truffle mixture with a crisp of tapioca pearls. All I can say is wow. This elegant light dish was one of the best things I’ve eaten this year.
Lenart reports that at the moment only the $90, 8-course degustation is being served, but the $140 12-course one will be added soon.
Goosefoot — Funny Name, Fantastic Food [LTHForum]