What to Eat

Butter Like Keller

Those who’ve dined at Per Se or the French Laundry might recall (among myriad other things) the superlative butter. Turns out it’s made personally for Thomas Keller’s restaurants on a small Orwell, Vermont, farm dubbed Animal Farm (heh), where one of the cows is even named Keller. The stuff, which is 87 percent butterfat and has a tangy, cultured flavor, is pretty much never available retail, but Saxelby Cheesemongers sends word that it’s selling the rolls of butter. Eight four-ounce packages are $59 (preorder here), so it’s not cheap — but you could always grab some friends and set up your own butter-share. [Saxelby Cheesemongers]

Butter Like Keller