For those who think the small plates routine has reached the point of ridiculousness, “Loose Ends” mocks the Buvette-ish trend with a faux meal that goes something like this: “The Octopus Plate is not a whole tentacle, but one sucker off of one tentacle: it looks like a diaphragm for a mouse, or a dollhouse bathroom’s wash basin, or a calcified contact lens.” Make sure to read about the .00005 milligrams of fennel pollen. [NYT]