The Other Critics

Darbar’s Lamb Brains Are Worth Seeking Out; Strip-T’s Gets an Upgrade

• Brighton’s Indian-Pakistani Darbar, “tucked away in a rather unappealing corner of Brighton far enough from the lively BU college bars and pizza spots,” is ideal for those on a budget. Just make sure you’re also adventurous: “Magaz masala otherwise known as lamb brains, is a specialty.” [Globe]

Boston’s “Small Bite” section visits Jason Santos’s Blue Inc. in the Financial District. Sadly, the food’s not on the money: “The lobster roll was fine, but hardly worth coming back for; the Broad Burger sat on a grease-soaked roll with caramelized onions and a side of flavorless pickles.” The milkshakes are good, but not redemptive enough. [Boston]

• Corby Kummer thinks Jamaica Plain is lucky to have Tres Gatos as a neighborhood hangout. The tapas at this bookstore-cafe are “painstakingly made with fresh ingredients,” and “everything is well-priced.” Head-on shrimp are the must-try dish. [Boston]

• Sheryl Julian visits Watertown’s funky Strip-T’s, where Tim Maslow, who spent years working under star chef David Chang, is now churning out inventive fare like “tender and unusual” charred baby octopus and “mollusks are covered with a salted-crab sauce.” Tim’s dad has owned the sandwich shop for years, and he brought his son on to shake up the menu. Now, even standard fare like wings are “exceptional.” [Globe]

Darbar’s Lamb Brains Are Worth Seeking Out; Strip-T’s Gets an Upgrade