With the departure of chef Chris Nugent to open Goosefoot, Les Nomades turned to its own history for a replacement— or so Penny Pollack tweeted Sunday. Roland Liccioni, who helmed Les Nomades’ kitchen from 2000 to 2002, will be back in charge as of Tuesday. It’s a natural choice, as Liccioni is one of the acknowledged masters of classic French dining in Chicago, and of all the other things that go into being a four-star, four-dollar-sign spot, having run Carlos, Le Francais (two separate times), Le Lan, Old Town Brasserie and Miramar Bistro in Highwood. In an interview we did with Mark Mendez of Vera last year, he talked about visiting Le Francais during Liccioni’s tenure with Brian Huston of The Publican, back when they were both line cooks at Spiaggia, and of observing his old school kitchen at work. Watch the video below.