The Other Critics

Patti U. Loves Nan Korean Dining Bar; Bauer Finds Some Two-Star Mexican at La Condesa

The bulgogi pa-jeon at Nan.
The bulgogi pa-jeon at Nan.

Patricia Unterman is delighted, for the most part, with Nan California Korean Cuisine, at the corner of Geary and Fillmore directly across from the Fillmore Auditorium. She points us to some beer-friendly Korean comfort food, like the bulgogi pa-jeon, a large fried pancake with sirloin and scallions. Uncharacteristically (you know she only likes to write raves, right?), she admits, “Not everything on the long, two-sided, laminated menu does it for me.” But she does also like the “other house specialty, soy and garlic fried chicken (No. 84),” and she says she could eat the bo-ssam (No. 103 - cold, marinated pork belly with daikon slaw, hot sauce, and cold steamed cabbage wrappers) all day. [Examiner]

The bulgogi pa-jeon at Nan.

When Michael Bauer says “The Bay Area needs more Mexican restaurants,” we think he means to say, “The Bay Area needs more Mexican restaurants that aren’t taquerias.” Because we all know there is plenty of good Mexican in and around the Mission and Oakland, just not in the kind of establishment that Mr. Bauer or his Peninsula/North Bay/Danville readership cares to frequent. And though it may not reach the three-star heights of Mamacita, the newly open La Condesa in St. Helena is a worthy cousin to its original incarnation in Austin, and Bauer says he’d return there “for the chips alone.” He also loves their salsas, and praises small plates like the tostadas and the taquitos, but he’s less enthusiastic about the ceviches and the larger plates, which he says may not be worth the price. But overall, he says the place “shows what passion, soul and a well-defined sense of place can do,” and he gives them two stars. [Chron]

Patti U. Loves Nan Korean Dining Bar; Bauer Finds Some Two-Star Mexican at La