Jonathan Gold drops his early word on Andre Guerrero’s new “re-invented red-sauce” Italian restaurant, Maximiliano, in Highland Park, congratulating the old neighborhood for its latest acquisition, “probably the only restaurant of its type between Silver Lake and Pasadena.” Gold thinks the pork chop may have “spent more time than it needed to in sous vide,” and finds the spaghetti aglio e olio strangely “soupy.” Still, with the chef’s unique approach in play, the critic writes that Maximiliano’s “conception of Italian-American cuisine is probably different from yours…but basically succeeds on its own terms.” The better news? He predicts it will only get better, while deeming Guerrero’s Pacojet-sputtered spumoni, “one of the most refreshing new desserts of the year.” [LAW]
