The Other Critics

Sikora Turns Out ‘Strikingly Soulful Food’ at; Steak 38 Revives ‘Forgotten Arts’

• Following “three satisfying meals” that reminded him of former Talula’s Table chef Bryan Sikora’s ability to turn out “strikingly soulful food,” Craig LaBan said Rittnehouse newcomer “reboots” the chef’s career. The from-scratch English muffins are “a pedestal for breakfast bliss,” and the scallops and sauerkraut choucroute “delivers layers of flavor, from cooked-down onions and fennel to the porky oomph of rendered salami, sausage, and bacon.” Dishes like a “tenderly braised veal ragu,” and grilled lamb “with zesty chimichurri” “hit the mark,” while fish dishes, like the “gorgeous grouper with fresh favas” and “crisped skate Provencale,” shows the “kitchen’s skill.” [Inquirer]

• Caesar salad prepared tableside is what Adam Erace calls “one of several forgotten arts” revived with the second coming of Cherry Hill’s Steak 38. A “beautiful five-chop beast” of rack of lamb, “also carved table-side” was “a little gamey but very tender.” Though flambe’s been done a thousand times,” the bananas foster for two “still elicits oohs and ahhs and squeals of delight.” [Courier-Post]

• “Upscale feel” and decor makes Bella Vista mainstay Dante and Luigi’s “a great place to try to impress a date.” Though prices “were a little high, especially for poor college students,” portion sizes “were huge.” Eggplant parmagiana “was really tasty,” and a “really nice rosetta sauce” “topped off the perfect gnocchi.” [Penn Appetit]

Foo Truck’s flank steak burrito was small and “boring on the outside,” but inside the “salty sweet marinade flavored the tender slices of steak,” bringing it “front stage” in an otherwise mass of ingredients that “didn’t exactly pop.” The lemongrass chicken burrito “left something to be desired,” “namely, flavor.” [Philly Phoodie]

Sikora Turns Out ‘Strikingly Soulful Food’ at; Steak 38