They also have blue doors there, but they don’t open.
Photo: Daniel Krieger/NYT
Tony Bourdain called the French Laundry “the best restaurant in the world, period,” and now outgoing New York Times critic Sam Sifton has deemed Thomas Keller’s Per Se “the best restaurant in New York City.” The dishes have much in common with the Laundry (despite being in a mall), and Sifton writes that since its somewhat more pretentious opening days seven years ago, Per Se “has matured. Its synthesis of culinary art and exquisite service is now complete.” [NYT via Grub Street NY]
