You know Michael Bauer is running out of new restaurants to review when he delves into the depths of North Beach. He hits up a four-year-old but nonetheless old-school seafood place, Sotto Mare, for his Sunday review, which he says is full of “quirks,” not the least of which is “the owner [Gigi Fiorucci] who greets customers with the demeanor of a bookie taking bets.” He loves the mussels and the cioppino, and the Rex sole “with the skin so crisply seared it almost tastes like fried chicken.” But even though the menu says “Dessert Menu” across the top, Fiorucci actually serves no dessert because he himself has diabetes. Also, no meat, no trans fat, and no potatoes either. But Bauer seems charmed by this eccentricity, and he gives the place a solid two stars. [Chron]
