The Other Critics

Abigail’s Thrives in the Post-Poutine World; Veggie Galaxy Is Meatless, but Manly

• Kendall Square’s Abigail’s is comforting and genuine, with “nothing fussy” involved. “Gouda fries are the B-Side’s blue cheese fries evolved, born into the post-poutine era of the Boston gastropub,” Devra First notes. Dessert isn’t their forte, and “entrees that sound promising don’t always quite come together,” but just the same, “It serves good food to eat in good company, while relaxing and catching up.” [Globe]

• At Cambridge’s Veggie Galaxy, “meat is like a long-forgotten summer fling.” Dinner entrees “steal the spotlight” and the reviewer’s heart. Carnivores take note: “The seitan (wheat gluten) is thinly sliced and grilled so that its texture resembles gyro, placed atop rainbow chard, caramelized onions, and two slices of toasted bread, and slathered with red wine gravy and baked beans. With a hearty, meaty flavor, it is quite the man sandwich.” Phew! [Globe]

• Allston’s Refuge Cafe leaves off where friendly hangout Allston Cafe left off: with “morning-after meals and comfort-food lunches — and soon, late-night snacks, too.” A “Refuge Breakfast” plate of two pancakes, scrambled eggs, choice of meat, and home fries sounds like a fine hangover cure. [Phoenix]

• MC Slim JB profiles the corn ravioli at Kendall Square’s Catalyst, where chef William Kovel has gone the “eclectic, seasonal American route favored by many indie chefs on this side of the Charles.” His ravioli showcases “perfect pasta shining through a creamy sauce of pureed corn studded with earthy chanterelles and faint accents of scallion and Thai basil,” simply plated. Get it while you still can. [Stuff]

The Brahmin’s Tuna Two Ways, a duo of tuna tartare and tuna paired with melon, gets a glowing review in Boston’s new feature, Taste Test. Tuna with watermelon was a particular hit: “Watermelon was sweet and refreshing; the tuna, slightly salty and rich.” [Boston]

• The Ritz’s “clean, modern” Artisan Bistro makes “extensive use of luxurious, caramel-hued leather,” while “Chef de cuisine Adam Kube’s menu plays with typical French bistro dishes” without going all the way. “Hearty” plates include pappardelle tossed with duck confit and beef stroganoff dotted with fresh beets. [Improper]

Abigail’s Thrives in the Post-Poutine World; Veggie Galaxy Is Meatless, but