We don’t learn much from Sifton’s piece “The Reviewing Life,” but it’s still a nice, late-afternoon goosebumps kind of read. Looking back on his best (arguably Roberta’s?) and worst (Hotel Griffou) restaurant experiences, he wraps up with his fondest food memory while on the job: an outdoor meal at the original Frankies with family, crostini, and cold red wine. Now that’s good taste. [NYT, Related]
It’s time to let go.