The Other Critics

Xilantro Was a ‘Resounding Disappointment’; Oyster House Soothes the ‘End-of-Summer Blues’

• In downtown Wayne Inquirer critic Craig LaBan sees a glimmer of hope in the “handsomely dark wood” and “startlingly modern” decor at still new-ish Xilantro. “Appetizingly solid” flavors played out in the form of “fashionable sauce-smudging, foams, and deconstructed presentations” on the “ambitiously modern menu” fall short. “Bland, bland, bland” tortilla soup, “oddly pasty and lacking zip” guacamole and ceviches that called out for “more citrus to counterbalance the spice” translate into “a resounding disappointment.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace heads to the Oyster House to “soothe the end-of-summer blues” with “free of grit and sand and shards of shell” oysters, “firm, flaky nuggets” of smoked bluefish” with “a luscious, backyard flavor” and the clambake’s “heaping kettle full of soft-shell steamers, mussels, linguisa sausage, small red potatoes, corn on the cob and a whole split lobster.” The only letdowns were the “clunky mess” of a peach crumble and the “only slightly better” toasted lemon pound cake. [Courier-Post]

• With its “perfectly salted” and “heavenly smoky taste,” the grilled octopus served as part of Estia’s Restaurant Week offerings was “spot-on” for Penn Appetit, and the Royal Dorado was “juicy, “delicate” and had a “wonderful taste.” [Penn Appetit]

• “No pretensions” and “no bullshit food” makes Cherry Street Tavern a favorable find. The “tender, salty” corned beef is “as good as any … around the city,” and the “somewhere between a french dip and a beef on weck” roast beef is the “real winner.” [Philly Phoodie]

Xilantro Was a ‘Resounding Disappointment’; Oyster House Soothes the