The Other Critics

Tamarkin Checks in with Michael Jordan’s Steak House; Ruby Explores the Robata Grill Explosion

Michael Jordan's Steak House
Michael Jordan’s Steak House Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

Calling himself a “seasoned steakhouse tourist,” David Tamarkin doesn’t much care for the beef offerings at Michael Jordan’s Steak House, giving it three stars out of five. The steaks were “light on flavor and a little mushy in texture.” His suggestion is to just call it “Michael Jordan’s,” as the nonsteak entrées make “an effort to stand out.” He loved the “innovative” lamb chops with merguez sausage and harissa, and the “insane” garlic bread, which he compared, favorably, to Pizza Hut’s own version. [TOC]

Jeff Ruby believes that Roka Akor’s “goofy enthusiasm overshadows its flaws.” The restaurant’s 1,800-degree grill kicks out a “masterful prime rib eye with rich caramelized edges that crisp before your eyes, minus the off-putting carcinogeny tang.” Though it’s sushi program isn’t “paradigm shifting,” most of it is “pretty good.” Unfortunately, the same can’t be said about the non-grilled side of the menu, which he calls a “mixed bag.” [Chicago Mag]

Ruby also checks in with Union Sushi + Barbeque Bar, finding that it “takes more chances with its menu than Roka does,” which isn’t necessarily a good thing. He wishes it would “balance the adventure with some restraint.” Beef tongue skewers come with “tantalizing blackened edges,” but some “oddball” items, like the fish cake, don’t come out as well. He found better luck with the “(relatively) normal dishes,” like the Berkshire pork loin. [Chicago Mag]

Tamarkin Checks in with Michael Jordan’s Steak House; Ruby Explores the Robata