The Other Critics

Salty Pig Satisfies; Bina Hits Its Stride

• Devra First visits the Back Bay’s Salty Pig for snout-to-tail indulgence. She thinks the food is “satisfying, elemental, unfussy, and delicious”; the menu is “pleasantly succinct.” As a bonus, the restrooms are papered with Far Side cartoons. [Globe]

Bina Osteria, which has gone through its fair share of chefs, finds success at last: With Will Foden at the helm, “Bina offers Italian food of an authenticity you can typically get only at Coppa, in the South End, or Il Casale, in Belmont.” Don’t miss the “baked littlenecks with home-cured pancetta and buttery, lightly garlicky bread crumbs.” [Boston]

• Porter Cafe serves up “nicely bistrofied” comfort food, writes Robert Nadeau, including clever pierogies and a “correctly done” chicken breast. Unusual wines by the glass and bottle are a nice surprise, too. [Phoenix]

• MC Slim JB showcases authentic Dominican eatery El Embajador, hidden in Jamaica Plain’s Parkside neighborhood. For a good value, consider the stews: a “mound of white rice, a dish of soupy pinto beans, and a big plateful of bone-in animal protein long-cooked in sauce.” (Sorry, stew of beef foot is available on weekends only.) [Phoenix]

Salty Pig Satisfies; Bina Hits Its Stride