Other Critics

Sifton Renews Craft’s Three Stars; Cheshes Thinks Do or Dine Falls Short

Do or Dine’s “[steak tartare] certainly looks impressive, the hand-chopped raw meat is mysteriously short on flavor, despite the mustard, sriracha and Kewpie mayo it’s tossed with,” says Jay Cheshes. “While these half-baked creations crowd the starters and snacks at the top of the menu, the entrées tend to be far more sedate. ‘A Fish and Some Chips’ is just what it sounds like, a whole golden sea bass with thick, meaty fries. It may be the best thing on the menu.” [TONY]

At the Dutch, “the generously portioned entreés are where [Andrew] Carmellini reveals his enthusiasm: tender duck breast with pecan-studded dirty rice; succulent grilled quail with cashew mole and a poblano kick. Chicken smoked in-house, atop runner beans and more of those fine tomatoes, fell from the bone it was so moist,” says Shauna Lyon. [NYer]
Related: Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite on the Dutch

“There is no overt theatricality to the food at Craft. The restaurant’s storied dry-aged porterhouse remains a thick and juicy marvel on James Tracey’s watch,” says Sam Sifton. “Beets and tarragon can hardly improve on themselves. Nor can luscious roast chicken that might have you cooking birds at home for a month of Fridays, trying to get that taste back in your mouth.” [NYT]

At Neely’s Barbecue Parlor, “much of the food is good, despite hatred of the restaurant spewed by Yelpers and others,” says Robert Sietsema. “The app of shrimp and grits is irresistible, though not the spitting image of the Low Country Gullah classic. There’s a nice iceberg wedge for a salad, plus some cornmeal-crusted catfish with a dab of Creole rémoulade; it might be the best thing on the menu.” [VV]

Aces “is the U.S. Open’s attempt to bring fine food to athletic events. The food is serviceable — better than a wedding banquet, though not by much,” says Ryan Sutton. At Champions Bar & Grill, “our $46 Creekstone ribeye was an undercooked horror, with gristly, under-rendered fat and cold red flesh. If you’re stuck here, grab a beer, some tender fried calamari and a moist slice of cream-cheese studded carrot cake.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Where to Eat at the U.S. Open

Sifton Renews Craft’s Three Stars; Cheshes Thinks Do or Dine Falls Short