The Other Critics

Kauffman Finds Promising Dishes at Sichuan Home

Jonathan Kauffman makes his way this week to two-month-old Sichuan Home (5037 Geary), the Outer Richmond restaurant that Patty U. called “smashing.” He writes, “Sichuan Home’s English name gives the first-time visitor the impression that she’ll be sweating away to grandma’s country cooking, but its food is hardly homey.” He goes on to talk about some delicious, more traditional dishes like the chef’s special Fish stew, spicy tea-smoked duck, and Couple’s Delight, the version here being the best he’s ever tasted. But the more experimental dishes on the menu’s “Sichuan new style food” section, combining influences from across Asia and America, are a little hit or miss. But he concludes that while that section “comes off as the first draft of an fascinating new book, the simple dishes showed what [chef Liu Hong] could do when he polishes up his sentences.” [SF Weekly, Unterman’s earlier take]

Kauffman Finds Promising Dishes at Sichuan Home