We were wondering why Patty Unterman decided to review Locavore (3215 Mission) all of a sudden a couple weeks back — long after Kauffman got to it and nearly a year after it opened. Now Mr. Bauer explains that it’s because chef Jonathan Merritt, who had been at Heirloom after also working at Pok Pok in Portland, is a relatively new addition. And Bauer finds himself similarly impressed with the food as Patty was, saying the place has “flourished” under Merritt, and calling special attention to the “marvelous” fried duck wings, the halibut, and the tomato salad. He’s not as big a fan of the meatball as Patty, but he is on board with her superlatives about the burger, saying, “It might not surpass the burger at Marlowe, but it comes close.” The verdict: two and a half stars. [Chron]
