The Other Critics

Bauer Calls Louis’ Shrimp Cocktail ‘Perfection’; Patty U. Indulges in Russian Comfort Food at Cinderella

Shrimp cocktail, with Saltines, at Louis'.
Shrimp cocktail, with Saltines, at Louis’. Photo: Michael Bauer

We know Mr. Bauer has a fondness for certain nostalgic American basics, and today he highlights the humble shrimp cocktail being served at the revamped Louis’ Restaurant out at Land’s End, above Ocean Beach and the Cliff House. The 74-year-old restaurant recently had to undergo a renovation and comply with a government mandate (they’re on federal land) to make their menu more sustainable and local, and of the shrimp cocktail Bauer writes, “While the shrimp were surprisingly sweet, they were merely a vehicle for the chile sauce loaded with horseradish. And when was the last time you’ve seen packaged Saltines accompanying a dish like that? Perfection.” Yes, Saltines can sometimes spell perfection, folks. [Between Meals/Scoop]

Ms. Unterman returns to an old favorite, Cinderella Restaurant in the Inner Richmond, which she calls “dumpling heaven,” and which underwent a bit of modernizing in the last couple of years. She says the reconfigured cafe is “even better than the old one,” and she describes one of her favorite things, besides the dumplings — which sounds, we must say, kind of gross! “My favorite Cinderella appetizer [is] marinated fish ($2.99), plucked right from the deli case. Breading and pan frying keeps the mild white flesh moist and velvety. Smothered in a thick, delicately sweet and sour mixture of long-cooked vegetables with no shortage of oil, the filets are chilled until everything melds in that integrated, old-world way. It’s just delicious.” Whatever you say, Patty! [Examiner]

Bauer Calls Louis’ Shrimp Cocktail ‘Perfection’; Patty U.