The Other Critics

Jonathan Kauffman Calls Tacko the ‘WASPiest Taco Shop in Town’; Reidinger Finally Gets to Una Pizza

Tacko, 3115 Fillmore at Filbert
Tacko, 3115 Fillmore at Filbert Photo: Tamara Palmer/Feast

Jonathan Kauffman and a friend of his from Massachusetts are both thoroughly amused by the Nantucket-themed taco concern Tacko, opened a few months back by Nick’s Crispy Tacos originator Nick Fasanella (Fasanella’s no longer involved with Nick’s, but you can get his famous tacos now at Tacko and Underdogs in the Sunset). He doesn’t knock Fasanella for “dispensing with all pretense of Mexican-ness, Latino kitchen staff excepted,” but he does knock him for some bland street tacos and a sub-par lobster roll, which is the only real nod to Nantucket on the menu. All the “Nick’s way” tacos, however, with their soft-crisp tortilla combo and excellent guacamole, are still solid, and he especially loves the Baja (fish) taco, Nick’s way. Also, he says the “California-style” burrito, stuffed with French fries instead of rice and beans, “is genuinely hard to stop eating.” [SF Weekly, SFoodie]

Mr. Reidinger was a little slow in getting over to Una Pizza Napoletana, but then again he doesn’t tend to rush to these things with the other reviewers. The only thing is, having had the pizza several times ourselves, and having heard every other critic rave of the perfection of the crust and note the ascetic simplicity of the menu (no starters, no salads, just pizza), we kind of don’t need to Reidinger say it all again, pretending he’s the only person in town who’s reviewed the place. Also, he misspells Anthony Mangieri’s name (as Mangiere). But he says the crust accomplishes a rare feat in that it “contributes flavor,” even though he finds, disappointingly, that the points of each slice do tend to “droop.” [Guardian]

Jonathan Kauffman Calls Tacko the ‘WASPiest Taco Shop in Town’;