CRUST: 4
"The proportion is good; it's kind of utilitarian. I don't know what the technique is called, but it's compressed."
FILLING: 4
"To me, the ...
Michael Laiskonis Picks New York’s Finest Pie
Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
In his post as executive pastry chef at world renowned French dining temple Le Bernardin, Michael Laiskonis doesn’t turn out too many pies, but that doesn’t mean the James Beard Award winner doesn’t like them. “Sometimes we get too complex for our own good, so it’s good to go back and sort of recalibrate,” he says. We were more than happy to help him do just that on a recent afternoon, escorting the easygoing Laiskonis around town stuffing our own pieholes, so to speak, at the Dutch, Momofuku Milk Bar, M. Wells, Four & Twenty Blackbirds, and Pies-N-Thighs, plus one from Hester Street Fair vendor and Fatty ‘Cue purveyor First Prize Pies. Laiskonis arrived with his appetite primed, announcing, as we dug in to our first specimen, “This is breakfast for me.” See his thoughts on the crust, filling, and comfort factor of each slice, then check out his winner, straight ahead.
CRUST: 3.5
"It looks like almost more of a crumble."
FILLING: 3
"I'm pretty sure it's made with dried cherries; I guess this time of year, I was expec... CRUST: 3.5
"It looks like almost more of a crumble."
FILLING: 3
"I'm pretty sure it's made with dried cherries; I guess this time of year, I was expecting fresh. I'm a little disappointed."
COMFORT FACTOR: 3
"It's serviceable."
TOTAL POINTS: 9.5 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"It looks like almost more of a crumble."
FILLING: 3
"I'm pretty sure it's made with dried cherries; I guess this time of year, I was expec... CRUST: 3.5
"It looks like almost more of a crumble."
FILLING: 3
"I'm pretty sure it's made with dried cherries; I guess this time of year, I was expecting fresh. I'm a little disappointed."
COMFORT FACTOR: 3
"It's serviceable."
TOTAL POINTS: 9.5 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST: 4
"It's solid. It's still pretty clean and contained, so you know it's going to be a bit dry."
FILLING: 3
"The cinnamon — if there were any mo... CRUST: 4
"It's solid. It's still pretty clean and contained, so you know it's going to be a bit dry."
FILLING: 3
"The cinnamon — if there were any more, there'd be too much."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
"It's not as luscious and unctuous as the peach one."
TOTAL POINTS: 11 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"It's solid. It's still pretty clean and contained, so you know it's going to be a bit dry."
FILLING: 3
"The cinnamon — if there were any mo... CRUST: 4
"It's solid. It's still pretty clean and contained, so you know it's going to be a bit dry."
FILLING: 3
"The cinnamon — if there were any more, there'd be too much."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
"It's not as luscious and unctuous as the peach one."
TOTAL POINTS: 11 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST: 3.5
"This is a little bit thicker, to contrast the lightness of the whipped cream and the pastry cream."
FILLING: 4
"The filling, even though ... CRUST: 3.5
"This is a little bit thicker, to contrast the lightness of the whipped cream and the pastry cream."
FILLING: 4
"The filling, even though it's three distinct flavors and textures, they're cohesive."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4.5
"This is quintessential diner pie."
TOTAL POINTS: 12 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"This is a little bit thicker, to contrast the lightness of the whipped cream and the pastry cream."
FILLING: 4
"The filling, even though ... CRUST: 3.5
"This is a little bit thicker, to contrast the lightness of the whipped cream and the pastry cream."
FILLING: 4
"The filling, even though it's three distinct flavors and textures, they're cohesive."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4.5
"This is quintessential diner pie."
TOTAL POINTS: 12 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST: 4
"The proportion is good; it's kind of utilitarian. I don't know what the technique is called, but it's compressed."
FILLING: 4
"To me, the salt kind of adds this whole new dimension. You see salt with caramel or chocolate, but this is actually kind of inventive."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
"I do think the sorbet helps balance it out."
TOTAL POINTS: 12
Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"The proportion is good; it's kind of utilitarian. I don't know what the technique is called, but it's compressed."
FILLING: 4
"To me, the salt kind of adds this whole new dimension. You see salt with caramel or chocolate, but this is actually kind of inventive."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
"I do think the sorbet helps balance it out."
TOTAL POINTS: 12
CRUST: 4
"Unlike some other pies, it's not so much the vehicle as a crucial component. It's incredibly flaky, maybe a little bit overcooked."
FILLIN... CRUST: 4
"Unlike some other pies, it's not so much the vehicle as a crucial component. It's incredibly flaky, maybe a little bit overcooked."
FILLING: 4
"It's a little bit more refined."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
TOTAL POINTS: 12 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"Unlike some other pies, it's not so much the vehicle as a crucial component. It's incredibly flaky, maybe a little bit overcooked."
FILLIN... CRUST: 4
"Unlike some other pies, it's not so much the vehicle as a crucial component. It's incredibly flaky, maybe a little bit overcooked."
FILLING: 4
"It's a little bit more refined."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4
TOTAL POINTS: 12 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST:4
"It has good flavor and it holds up well, but the filling is the star."
FILLING 4.5
"It was pretty amazing, given the depth of flavor, how ligh...
"It has good flavor and it holds up well, but the filling is the star."
FILLING 4.5
"It was pretty amazing, given the depth of flavor, how light it was."
COMFORT FACTOR: 4.5
"It's probably the one that most reminds me of something homemade."
TOTAL POINTS: 13
Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST:3.5
"I think here it's just kind of the vehicle."
FILLING 4.5
"There are interesting things happening with the filling. It almost speaks to th... CRUST:3.5
"I think here it's just kind of the vehicle."
FILLING 4.5
"There are interesting things happening with the filling. It almost speaks to that idea of 'greater than the sum of its parts'; they have to be using quality ingredients.
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
"This lies on that guilty pleasure, pure indulgence side."
TOTAL POINTS: 13 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"I think here it's just kind of the vehicle."
FILLING 4.5
"There are interesting things happening with the filling. It almost speaks to th... CRUST:3.5
"I think here it's just kind of the vehicle."
FILLING 4.5
"There are interesting things happening with the filling. It almost speaks to that idea of 'greater than the sum of its parts'; they have to be using quality ingredients.
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
"This lies on that guilty pleasure, pure indulgence side."
TOTAL POINTS: 13 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST: 4
"The latticework is very well done. With something like this, you're in danger of the bottom becoming soggy, but it holds up without being t... CRUST: 4
"The latticework is very well done. With something like this, you're in danger of the bottom becoming soggy, but it holds up without being tough."
FILLING: 4.5
"The candied thyme I thought would be overwhelming, but it's not as pronounced as I expected."
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
"Aesthetically, for me, this is how it's supposed to be. The filling is barely contained. I love how this falls apart."
TOTAL POINTS: 13.5 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
"The latticework is very well done. With something like this, you're in danger of the bottom becoming soggy, but it holds up without being t... CRUST: 4
"The latticework is very well done. With something like this, you're in danger of the bottom becoming soggy, but it holds up without being tough."
FILLING: 4.5
"The candied thyme I thought would be overwhelming, but it's not as pronounced as I expected."
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
"Aesthetically, for me, this is how it's supposed to be. The filling is barely contained. I love how this falls apart."
TOTAL POINTS: 13.5 Photo: Luke Townsend/? Copyright Luke Townsend 2011/New York Magazine
CRUST: 4.5
"The bottom layer disintegrates a little bit."
FILLING: 4.5
"It's mostly apple. It's loose and kind of sloppy, which just means it's mois... CRUST: 4.5
"The bottom layer disintegrates a little bit."
FILLING: 4.5
"It's mostly apple. It's loose and kind of sloppy, which just means it's moist. There might be some cinnamon, but it's supporting."
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
TOTAL POINTS: 14
"The bottom layer disintegrates a little bit."
FILLING: 4.5
"It's mostly apple. It's loose and kind of sloppy, which just means it's mois... CRUST: 4.5
"The bottom layer disintegrates a little bit."
FILLING: 4.5
"It's mostly apple. It's loose and kind of sloppy, which just means it's moist. There might be some cinnamon, but it's supporting."
COMFORT FACTOR: 5
TOTAL POINTS: 14
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