The Other Critics

‘South American Swagger’ Earns 943 Two Ringy-Dingies; ‘Bright Flavors’ and ‘Perfectly Executed’ Pork Belly Pleases at Pumpkin

• The “South American swagger” of the “heat-charred patty of house-made chorizo, tangy with cumin and with a blush of chile heat” served to Craig LaBan at the Italian Market’s 943, and the “sublimely tender octopus … sliced into long ribbons with fava beans, fennel, and paprika-tinted lemon; or sliced into rounds with tomatoes and oil-cured black olives that have a Mediterranean piquance,” summons two ringy-dingies. [Inquirer]

• At the Vorhees, New Jersey traditional Afghan restaurant, Ariana, Adam Erace encounters “deftly delivered” aashak (Afghan dumplings) with “light oniony flavor,” and a mixed grill of kebabs that were “smoky and primally satisfying.” [Courier-Post]

• The “barely oiled pan fried pork dumplings” were a “nice starter” for Midtown Lunch at Yummy Lan Zhou, Chinatown’s new hand drawn noodle shop, the meat “was just decent” in both the duck and beef brisket soups, but the noodles were “fabulously fresh.” [Midtown Lunch]

• Two Eat Philly checks out Pumpkin’s Sunday night, $35 five-course tasting menu and report the green gazpacho had “bright flavors,” and the “perfectly executed” pork belly’s “flavor was magnified by a tiny bit of syrupy glaze and a few pickled mustard seeds.” [Two Eat Philly]

‘South American Swagger’ Earns 943 Two Ringy-Dingies; ‘Bright