The Other Critics

Pikaichi Isn’t Ken’s Ramen; Tamarind House Beats Suburban Thai

• The Globe visits Pikaichi, the new Japanese restaurant occupying the space that once housed the beloved Ken’s in Allston. While Ken’s was known for other-worldly ramen, Pikaichi puts its own “spin” on things. One specialty worth trying is donburi, Japanese rice bowls, best topped with a sunny-side-up egg. Noodles, sadly, “leave something to be desired.” [Globe]

• MC Slim JB thinks that Cambridge’s Tamarind House bridges the gap between traditional and Americanized Thai food. (It’s a “useful step up from the bowdlerized meekness of the suburban Thai run-of-the-mill.”) As we’re currently experiencing a heat wave, maybe try the yum talay, a “perfect summer dish” comprising seafood salad with a dressing of rice vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and dried chilies. Bonus: “fresh-tasting” scallops, squid, shrimp, and lightly fried fish fillets. [Phoenix]

• Redd’s in Rozzie makes a mean tempura-dipped avocado, says the Improper. The avocado is slightly underripe, but no matter; a “cayenne-spiked” buttermilk dressing, coupled with a “lacy and crisp” ‘cado coating make this a lust-worthy snack. [Improper]

• The Improper also previews Forum, now occupying Vox Populi’s old digs. Expect “progressive American fare” with an “emphasis on detail,” served in “intimate spaces” made so by segmented origami paneling. [Improper]

Pikaichi Isn’t Ken’s Ramen; Tamarind House Beats Suburban Thai