The Other Critics

Patty U. Praises the ‘Clean Cooking’ at Piccino

Piccino, in the daytime.
Piccino, in the daytime. Photo: Georg Lester/Grub Street

Just as Mr. Bauer did last week, Patricia Unterman takes her turn reviewing Piccino, similarly marveling at the edginess of Dogpatch, where she and Bauer’s don’t tend to find themselves very often. “As part of an enclave of smart shops in a neighborhood that still harbors the Hells Angels headquarters, dive bars and tire shops, Piccino basks in the balmy weather and the edgy diversity of this nine-square-block area of The City [sic].” Furthermore, she says “The clean cooking at Piccino keeps its patrons sleek enough to aspire to chic,” which makes us feel like she was feeling out of place or something. She doesn’t say too much about the food, but she sounds like she’s a fan of the pizzas and the “clarity” of the salads and vegetable antipasti. And she also likes the wine list, and the proximity of the “groovy” Mr. & Mrs. Miscellaneous ice cream shop. We just don’t get the last line, about how her $3 ice cream cone saved her from buying a $300 shirt, and she “still ended up buying something that [she] might wear forever.” Are you calling yourself fat, Patty? Cut it out. [Examiner, Earlier slideshow]

Patty U. Praises the ‘Clean Cooking’ at Piccino