The Other Critics

Bauer Thoroughly Dislikes La Terrasse; Unterman Enjoys Cha-Ya; Sens Kind of Likes Piccino, Hecho

Mr. Bauer heartily pans old-school French eatery La Terrasse in the Presidio, noting from the start that it’s more than a little old school. He writes, “the meal reminded me of one I had at one of the best French restaurants in Tulsa, Okla., circa 1985.” Ouch. He arrives one night to find the restaurant’s tables totally unset at 7 p.m. (and the place obviously empty), and he can’t find much to like about the food except a single, boring-sounding, mushroom-puff-pastry thing. Basically, the only thing the place has going for it these days is a touch of atmosphere. So yeah: one star. [Chron]

Admitting that “contemplating a dinner that eliminates any food group makes [her] grumpy,” Patricia Unterman nonetheless lets herself get dragged to Mission vegetarian-sushi mainstay Cha-Ya, only to find herself charmed. She likes the vegetable tempura, the senroppon salad, the summer green roll, and the housemade gyoza; and she loves “an aromatic wild vegetable soup called sansai” which she calls “satisfying” and “full of umami.” [Examiner]

Josh Sens has a pair of new reviews in the new SF Mag, for Piccino and tequila-and-sushi spot Hecho. At Piccino he loves a cipollini soup, but says there are “few surprises” on the Cal-Med menu, except for the crispy, flatbread-like pizzas. All in all: two stars.

Of Hecho, he notes “hits and misses,” including an under-seasoned chicken thigh skewer, and the Hecho Roll is “a triumphant original,” with ocean trout, red bean jelly, and chrysanthemum leaves. He likes the design and calls the place “a good fit for a quick business lunch or quick post-work snack,” but gives it a lackluster one and a half stars. [SF Mag - digital edition, page 108]

Bauer Thoroughly Dislikes La Terrasse; Unterman Enjoys Cha-Ya; Sens Kind of