The Other Critics

Visit Pronti Pronto; El Centro Is Authentic

• Needham’s Pronti gets a favorable review from Louise Kennedy, despite its drab location on an “unpromising stretch of Highland Avenue.” Their Indian wraps “put the ordinary American version to shame.” Try the Chandigarh, boasting a “decidedly subcontinental blend of charbroiled paneer cheese and lightly spicy mango sauce.” [Globe]

• Devra First takes an early look at South End Mexican newcomer El Centro. It’s growing popular thanks to its authentic Sonoran eats, including “ingredients with which Americans may be less familiar, such as nopales (cactus) and huitlacoche (a fungus that grows on corn).” Be sure to order the churros, too; they’re a house specialty. [Globe]

• Mat Schaffer visits Floating Rock, formerly in Revere and now in Central Square. Sadly, the Cambodian menu has been “truncated” and servers, well-meaning but non-native, aren’t particularly helpful when it comes time to order. Speaking of ordering: Don’t expect “kick” from a tame tiger tear salad, and beware of inauthentic shrimp in a blanket. Instead, opt for Khmer noodle soup, whose “savory broth” is dusted with fried garlic. [Herald]

• Robert Nadeau likes Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, which took over the waterfront perch of Jimmy’s Harborside. Oysters were not “wicked awesome,” yet crabcakes were “extraordinary,” mercifully absent filler. Despite what their website says, steaks don’t taste aged for 28 days; even so, a 16-ounce prime rib eye was “delicious.” The wine list is “vast,” desserts are “huge,” and the view can’t be beat. It’s especially good if “someone else is paying.” [Phoenix]

Prezza’s Anthony Caturano points MC Slim JB toward Saugus, where he discovers the simple joys of Victor’s Italian Restaurant. Victor’s rises above the “dull morass” of what Slim calls “Jersey Italian-American” with made-to-order veal cutlets and pastas coated with “fine, smooth red sauce.” On weekends, linguine with clams is a hit. And any day of the week, Victor’s is a “minor revelation.” [Phoenix]

• Tanya Pai checks out Lolita’s new brunch service for Boston. A cucumber watermelon mojito was “all things refreshing and delicious” (“cocktails are what Lolita does best”); the food was “standard brunch fare with a slight twist.” She recommends anything with red chile homefries. [Boston]

• Harvard Square’s OM gets an enthusiastic review from B.N. Lee at the Improper, who thinks that fans of Patricia Yeo’s work at Ginger Park will appreciate her newest endeavor. Sometimes Yeo plays it a bit too safe, but when she takes risks with some dishes, “their assertiveness” is a “revelation.” Case in point: trout roasted in banana leaf, which came “lathered in a pungent fish sauce and green curry.” [Improper]

Visit Pronti Pronto; El Centro Is Authentic