The Other Critics

Nagrant Finds Numerous Rewards at GT Fish & Oyster; Tamarkin Approves of ‘Bro Bar’ Food at Roots

GT Fish & Oyster gets more good news.
GT Fish & Oyster gets more good news. Photo: Galdones Photography

• Though the writing on the walls at GT Fish & Oyster reminds Michael Nagrant of “the venerable Red Lobster,” he admits that the restaurant is ultimately “more appealing to aged-cheddar-seeking foodies than the Cheddar Bay biscuit-loving set.” In fact, he’s not sure if there is a better “small plates spot in town.” Though other Boka Group chefs may get more attention, he believes that Giuseppe Tentori “almost makes those adept technicians look sloppy.” Nagrant is particularly smitten with the squid ink gnocchi on sweet carrot lobster broth, which “could be inserted into a tasting menu at Alinea on short notice.” [Modern Luxury]

• Calling it a “bro bar” that actually puts “quality food,” David Tamarkin gives Roots Handmade Pizza three out of five stars. Though there’s “no obligation to like” the Quad Cities style pizza the restaurant is dishing out, the details ensure that it “can cross county lines and be successful.” The products made in-house help the dishes stand out: the sausage on the sausage pie is “crumbly and aggressively seasoned”; the freshly made mozzarella makes “a very fine cheese stick”; and fresh herbs “offset the pizza’s sweetness.” [TOC]

• Julia Kramer believes Porkchop’s simple “Southern-inspired comfort food,” too often feels “like something you could make at home.” She gives the West Loop eatery two stars out of five, noting that even a “decent” whiskey selection can’t save the “practically deserted restaurant.” Some dishes are satisfying, but others show significant flaws. That’s especially true of the fried pork chops, which don’t have “nearly enough gravy” to hide the burnt parts. [TOC]

Nagrant Finds Numerous Rewards at GT Fish & Oyster; Tamarkin Approves of ‘Bro