The Other Critics

Kauffman Calls Locanda ‘Gawky’ But Good; Reidinger Calls Zero Zero the ‘Apex’ of the Local Pizza Craze

Photo: Kimberly Sandie/SF Weekly

Like Bauer did on Sunday, Jonathan Kauffman offers up some similarly qualified praise for Locanda today, writing “many aspects of the restaurant are still gawky and fumbling,” but quickly adding, “the vision behind the restaurant is sure, and enough of the food is too, that the awkwardness bears waiting out.” Regarding Anthony Strong’s food, he’s especially happy with the “stylish” and simple Jewish-style artichoke, and he says generally “the Roman dishes are more like a set of culinary allusions than an attempt at museum-quality authenticity.” He found the service a little uneven, however — not something the mostly well recognized Mr. Bauer had a problem with — and had an issue with a couple of over-seasoned dishes and an undercooked pasta as well. Also, he braved a special dish of deep-fried lamb brains one evening on the offal section of the menu and raves that they were “internationally exceptional.” [SF Weekly, see also our menu slideshow]

Reidinger says that our “recent bout of pizza chic” fever has hit its “apex” at Zero Zero — we think he hasn’t made it to Una Pizza yet — and in some uncharacteristically sweeping praise, he says he “found the food beautifully conceived and presented.” Oh, but a couple of things were almost too salty (doesn’t that mean “just right,” Paul?), which he attributes to a chef who must be a smoker (what?). He likes the octopus, and the puffs on the pizza crusts, and calls the pizza toppings “elegant and restrained.” [SFBG]

Kauffman Calls Locanda ‘Gawky’ But Good; Reidinger Calls Zero Zero