Talk about a lucky gig: Jonathan Gold, L.A. Weekly’s Pulitzer Prize–winning food critic, decided it was his absolute responsibility to find out whether Noma, the No. 1 restaurant according to S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, was better than Alinea, currently North America’s most acclaimed restaurant. And what is his conclusion?
Though Gold calls Grant Achatz’s Chicago restaurant “a house of marvels,” Gold eventually sides with Noma: “The technology is the same, the airs and gels and water ovens. But in one case it is being used to dazzle, in the other, to enable a story to be told.” The full article will be available in the July/August issue of WSJ Magazine, but the Huffington Post got a (miniature) sneak peek today. Obviously, this just continues the rapturous acclaim for the Copenhagen restaurant, though we do know of a certain Swedish chef who might beg to differ.