The Other Critics

Bauer Finds Fonda ‘In the Doldrums’

Fonda in Albany, the Mexican tapas place which notched three stars the last time Mr. Bauer checked in back in 2005, has “lost the laser focus that brought the restaurant into prominence in the first place.” He complains of an over-sauced skirt steak, carnitas tostaditas that “were like salt licks,” and a bunch of other tacos that were bland. “No one seems to be paying attention to what comes out of the kitchen,” he writes, and furthermore, the servers are half asleep and the upholstery is frayed. For this one, it’s a big slide from three to one and a half stars. [Chron]

Bauer Finds Fonda ‘In the Doldrums’