The Other Critics

Where There’s Pizza, There’s Three Stars: Bauer’s Review of Ragazza

Photo: Brian Smeets/Grub Street

Should this really be a surprise? Alas, Mr. Bauer’s enduring and much discussed love for pizza wins Sharon Ardiana a matching three-star medal for eight-month-old Ragazza — to go with the one Bauer gave her for her other pizza joint, Gialina, a couple of years back. It even sounds like he held off on reviewing the place, wanting so hard to like it that he waited until the food improved. Of the pizza, he says, “The crust, thin and puffy at the edges, was good right from the start, but it has gotten even better over the last few months as the crew has adjusted to the stronger Woodstone Fire Deck ovens.” He also loves the service (which has perhaps improved since Kauffman wrote this?), and says he could even imagine “forgoing the pizza” one day just to order off the rest of the menu, though this sounds a little disingenuous as he doesn’t have major raves for any of the other dishes. He likes the Green Goddess salad, the artichoke caponata, and says the orecchiette was perfect one of the two times he ordered it. Also, he adores Ardiana’s cannolis, and recommends ordering any of the special roasts before they sell out. [Chron]

Where There’s Pizza, There’s Three Stars: Bauer’s Review of