The Other Critics

Sifton Enjoys Colonie; Cheshes Disappointed by the Astor Room

Colonie “serves a mostly solid farm-to-table menu of haute American food to a building crowd,” says Sam Sifton. “Mr. Sorenson does well by the forest floor. His roasted oyster mushrooms with pear are a marvel.” [NYT]

The Astor Room’s “food is drab and uneven,” writes Jay Cheshes. “Beef Stroganoff, another ponderous dinosaur, fares better, its buttery egg noodles topped with fork-tender short rib instead of the usual sautéed scraps of steak.” [TONY]

Papaye is “a great place to become acquainted with the West African staple joloff rice ($10), a baked quarter-chicken on rice colored carmine with tomato paste,” says Robert Sietsema. [VV]

At Tenpenny, “try the crudo — finely chopped ocean trout mingles with apple crème fraîche, served with pumpernickel chips. It’s Jewish deli food out of its realm, in a good way,” says Lauren Shockey. “My favorite pasta — and probably my number-one item overall here — is the $24 porchetta ravioli with smoked ricotta, broccoli rabe, and a runny poached egg.” [VV]

At Brooklyn Star, “Tex-Mex reaches its microwavable apex with Frito pie — a can of Wolf Brand chili poured into a bag of corn chips. The Star goes for a bit more elegance, placing chips on the side and spiking the chili with tripe,” says Ryan Sutton. [Bloomberg]

The menu at M. Wells “reads like a drawn-out dare, and sometimes verges on the grotesque,” writes Amelia Lester. “There’s a burger so gargantuan that it must be cut into slices, like a pizza; it feeds at least five. It turns out that [it’s] delicious.” [NYer]

Sifton Enjoys Colonie; Cheshes Disappointed by the Astor Room