Is it time to officially declare “modern Jewish cuisine” a trend? Nikki Cascone scandalized some by opening a “global Jewish” restaurant, Octavia’s Porch, that doesn’t keep kosher (neither, by a long shot, does the cheekily named Traif). However, when El Chod’s 120-seat Kutsher’s Tribeca opens at 186 Franklin this fall, the only bacon on the menu will be the beef variety. Speaking of beef, the menu’s eclectic influences are evident in dishes like the corned-beef bánh mì and “Moshe Peking’s sizzling beef” (wok-fried short ribs served with moo shu pancakes and spicy coleslaw). Traditionalists needn’t despair, though: You’ll also find varnishkes (albeit prepared with truffle butter), a whitefish-salad sandwich, matzo-ball soup, and the like. Tribeca Citizen (which snagged the full menu) reminds us that the eatery is an offshoot of the Catskills “Borscht Belt” resort of the same name, which raises our only question: Where’s the borscht?
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