The Other Critics

Isabella’s Braised Pork Belly ‘Could Have Been Spectacular’; Farm & Fisherman’s Pig Cheeks Are ‘Buttery and Impossibly Tender’

• At Conshohocken’s Isabella Craig LaBan spots “some very familiar spinach gnocchi in nutmeg brown butter,” which he says could be “Vetri-esque if they were significantly lighter,” and braised pork belly that “could have been spectacular,” but “it wasn’t quite as tender as it could be.” [Inquirer]

• With snails as “tough as rawhide” and “beets and bacon atypically unassertive,” Adam Erace “would prefer to forget” his first visit to Collingswood’s Blackbird Dining Establishment in 2011, but the “surprisingly creamy and subtle” “enormous panko-sheathed” fried oyster was a success. [Courier-Post]

Farm & Fisherman’s Josh Lawler’s bluefish “had the impeccable freshness that such a delicate yet powerfully flavored fish demands” when Trey Popp checked in. “Buttery and impossibly tender,” his pig cheeks “were too good not to have twice.” [Phillymag]

• “Smothered with molten-green chili-laden processed cheese,” Philly Phoodie says Sketch Burger’s fries are “not for the faint of heart,” and with the “generously portioned” crisp bacon, the bacon blue cheese burger “was the true star.” [Philly Phoodie]

Isabella’s Braised Pork Belly ‘Could Have Been Spectacular’;