In the Magazine

Adam Platt on Desmond’s, Graffit; Our Annual ‘Where to Drink’ Guide

Photo: Danny Kim/New York Magazine

In this week’s New York, Adam Platt visits Desmond’s, an “inoffensive, slightly pricey new midtown restaurant.” Aims at a “latter-day Stork Club atmosphere” are dimished by the “echoey room” and “catacomb-gray” lighting. The food — “a perfectly acceptable tuna tartare,” a soufflé that’s “less a soufflé than a wizened little cheese tart” — is, above all else, “decent”; the restaurant earns one star. Platt also drops in on Graffit, “Jesús Núñez’s flamboyant little brownstone restaurant,” which is “really two restaurants in one.” There’s a tapas bar in front with classics Iberico ham croquettes, and a back restaurant where Nuñez “indulges his passion for splashing all sorts of strange and eclectic colors on the plate. Unfortunately this results in some unnattractive hues, as in the “muddy oxtail ravioli wrapped in floppy wonton skins”; our critic awards one star here as well.

Meanwhile, the magazine’s most diligent drinkers release their annual “Where to Drink” guide to imbibing. Check out recommendations for the best new bars, ogle our rainbow of cocktails, find the best dance parties, and much more.

Speaking of drinking, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld alert us to the kegger taking place behind midtown’s FoodParc. Dubbed BeerParc, the operation pairs brews with pretzels from Edi & the Wolf, Thai-style fried chicken from Harold Dieterle of Kin Shop, and Ed Brown’s lobster rolls. The Robs also spoke to Hooni Kim of Danji, who furnished the recipe for his killer scallion pancakes. And if you haven’t heard, you can now dine in the gutter, with the city’s rapidly proliferating pop-up curbside cafés.

Adam Platt on Desmond’s, Graffit; Our Annual ‘Where to Drink’