“Wagyu beef made it possible for Americans to eat even fattier beef, a promise surely enshrined in the Constitution,” Jonathan Gold proposes, digging into the off-menu Kobe beef pho at Alhambra’s hip Vietnamese restaurant Noodle Guy. Though Kobe doesn’t work too well in shabu shabu or sliders, “pho may end up being among the highest and best expressions of Wagyu beef.” It may be a loss leader for the restaurant, the critic sympathizes, but “you owe it to yourself to try it at least once.” [LAW]
Merrill Shindler might miss Gardena’s Heung Boo Nae, but he’s still pretty happy at its replacement Chun Chon Chicken Kalbi, where “they want happiness to reign supreme.” He and the buzzing room are happy indeed over their original and fusion-y bowls of dakgalbi, and it sounds even better for lunch the next day. [Daily Breeze]
A dude is seeking okonomiyaki like the style he had in Hiroshima. Good luck, says Mr. Gold, who says he “can’t believe how many awful versions of this seemingly simple Japanese pancake there seem to be.” That’s why he’s still going to Lomita’s GaJa, which he recommended at length back in 2005. There you’ll find both Osaka and Hroshima-style, plus a great cream puff when you’re through. [LAW]
Jonathan Gold heads to Ray’s (which pretty much rules) and notes that Kris Morningstar has “designed one of the most seasonal, farm-based menus in town,” though it’s not short on butter, and may we add, meat. He’s just taking a first bite at this point, but still he suggests it “may be the restaurant that this plaza deserves,” which sounds like a good thing…we think. [LAW]
