The Other Critics

Bauer Digs Plate Shop (Though Hasn’t Reviewed It Yet); Unterman Adores the Pasta at Osteria Coppa

The smoked risotto at Plate Shop.
The smoked risotto at Plate Shop. Photo: Michael Bauer

Using one of those qualified superlatives that are his bread and butter, Michael Bauer calls Sausalito’s Plate Shop, “One of the most ambitious small restaurants I’ve come across in some time.” This is just in a blog post though, one of his now regular recent-favorite-dishes roundups that serve as hints about upcoming reviews. He calls out, in particular, chef Kim Alter’s “every part of the chicken on one plate” dish (which we also love), and posts an iPhone photo of the smoked risotto with uni and sea beans. [Between Meals/Scoop]

Then over at the Examiner, Patricia Unterman files a glowing review of Osteria Coppa, the little Italian joint in San Mateo opened last summer by Michael Tusk’s cousin and former Quince pasta maker Chanan Kamen. She’s pretty much in love with the pasta, calling his tajarin “exquisitely irresistible,” and the bigoli, “lightly tossed with a juicy sauce of minced lamb, saffron and aromatic peppers, astounds with its cohesion and fullness of flavor.” Is that all, Patti? “Please, stop me… Exemplary pizza… has thin, chewy crusts and toppings that are layered on at different stages of baking to keep textures perfect… Secondi, main courses, show as much technique as the heartthrob pasta.” Anything you’d like to add? “Osteria Coppa is everything an eater hopes for in a restaurant. No pretense. No attitude. Just knock-down, great food that is accessible and rewarding for everyone at suburban, not city, prices.” [Examiner]

Bauer Digs Plate Shop (Though Hasn’t Reviewed It Yet); Unterman Adores the