Atelier Crenn is beginning its slow evolution from fledgling restaurant into adolescence, and two months in chef Dominique Crenn has already revised most of the tasting menu to reflect the spring garden and incorporating some even more nuanced flavors than when she began (see the opening menu here). Also changed is the “Memoire d’Enfance” potato dish, which has morphed with the season to include pea sprouts, mint, basil, goat butter, and the Comté cheese has become a crisp or frico. Crenn’s plates continue to inspire oohs and aahs from diners because of her talent for unusually artful presentations, even though the critics feel like she might blur the line between food and art too much — this is an argument we’d actually prefer to stay out of. It’s food! It’s arty! And also quite tasty. Click through to see a recent version of the menu, in pictures, including a trio of sweet dishes by the highly inventive and envelope-pushing pastry chef, Juan Contreras.
A remarkably light pork belly dish with compressed melon, kiwi, coconut, basil, and cucumber.