The Other Critics

Two Takes on Dandelion; Horizons’ Smoked Eggplant Braciole Is ‘Rich’

• At Stephen Starr’s Dandelion, Craig LaBan relishes the “deep brown pillow of beer-batter crunch” of Chef Robert Aikens’ “magnificent” and “masterful” fish and chips, and finds the the seven-hour-braised pork belly is “a stellar example of gastropub decadence.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace notes that provolone adds a “welcome sharp edge” to Rouge’s onion soup, and the “meaty” monkfish was “one of the best preps of that fish” he’s ever had. [Courier-Post]

• Trey Popp says, “it’s hard to go wrong with seafood” at Dandelion, the burger is in a “dead heat with Village Whiskey’s as the champion of Center City,” and the chicken-and-duck-liver parfait is “worthy.” [Phillymag]

• Two Eat Philly find the “fluffy and buttery with a touch of salt on the crust” bread at Horizons, a “perfect start to the meal,” and the “complex” cauliflower and smoked eggplant braciole had a “rich, peppery taste reminiscent of prosciutto.” [Two Eat Philly]

Two Takes on Dandelion; Horizons’ Smoked Eggplant Braciole Is