The Other Critics

Sifton Impressed by Veritas; Cuozzo Thinks Red Rooster ‘Makes Lenox Avenue Swing Again’

At Veritas “an order of the roast chicken — La Belle Rouge, and crisp as puff pastry — is a requirement for any table, served moist and salty over a potato-leek cake,” says Sam Sifton. “A plate of lobster tail and roasted bone marrow, Ocean and Land, manages at once to be outrageous and entirely possible to consume in one minute of concentrated eating, with the marrow acting as butter for the lobster tail.” [NYT]

Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet has “unique and delectable Taiwanese fare. Most famous is three-cup chicken ($8.95), a braised bird served in a ceramic crock,” says Robert Sietsema. “The best time to eat at the café is between the hours of 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., when the Taiwanese dim sum menu kicks in.” [VV]

At Red Rooster, “fiery blackened catfish scored big-time — juicy, really black and rubbed with a curry-like sizzle of ‘secret’ spices,” says Steve Cuozzo. “Rich and rugged warm roasted barley could convert a sumo wrestler to vegetarianism. Onion broth layered with miso and black soy embrace roasted and simmered barley. Charred sunchokes crowned this wonderful, spoon-slurpable concoction.” [NYP]

John Dory Oyster Bar “has forsaken entrées for a menu of small plates,” writes Lauren Shockey. “Oysters get marquee billing, so start there. East and West Coast represent at $3 apiece, the selection changing frequently. Meanwhile, $15 kedgeree was so salty one evening it was nearly inedible.” [VV]
Related: Adam Platt Reviews John Dory Oyster Bar

Seersucker “is ‘inspired’ by all things Southern, a claim that conveniently exempts the food from measuring up to any ideals,” says Sylvia Killingsworth. “Devilled eggs, named for a traditional dusting of paprika, bear neither the red powder nor its kick, and an order of two spongy biscuits comes with a selection of bland preserves and honey butter.” [NYer]

At La Silhouette, “Pappardelle with wild boar, braised kale and ricotta is rustic and excessively rich in one fell swoop,” says Gael Greene. “The thrill of creamy truffled potato soup served in a potato shell is outdazzled by the accompanying stack of lush grilled cheese finger sandwiches with bacon.” [Insatiable Critic]

At Fedora, “Buttered-toast with an egg and cheddar would be enough gooey richness for most. Not for this chef; he adds musty stewed tripe to the mix,” writes Ryan Sutton. “The $85 cote de boeuf for two is boring on the palate — until a hint of ponzu sauce and soy butter give the meat an unexpectedly bright depth of flavor. Very clever.” [Bloomberg]

Sifton Impressed by Veritas; Cuozzo Thinks Red Rooster ‘Makes Lenox Avenue