The Other Critics

Sula and Bruno Take on The Hubbard Inn; Tamarkin Finds Simple Pleasures at Bistronomic

Inside The Hubbard Inn
Inside The Hubbard Inn Photo: Huge Galdones/Galdones Photography

• Mike Sula thought the shared plates at The Hubbard Inn were “almost afterthoughts,” to the “reasonably priced and decent classic cocktails.” The flatbreads featured “underbaked crusts,” the steak tartare was “almost willfully unseasoned,” and the sweetbreads were “spongy” and had the “texture of scrambled eggs.” Only the “simple pair of braised chicken thighs” were worth the price. [Chicago Reader]

• Though Pat Bruno was a little confused about the menu, he feels like chef Bob Zrenner is doing “a reasonably good job at The Hubbard Inn.” The lobster club sandwich was “pure enjoyment,” while the Moroccan vegetable plate provided an “even higher level of enjoyment.” Still, too many of the dishes felt “safe,” like he was “sort of like coloring inside the lines.” That included the house potato chips, which were “a snooze.” [Sun Times]

• David Tamarkin gives Bistronomic three stars out of five, writing that there “are no surprises on the menu,” but that’s fine considering chef Martial Noguier “seems skilled at producing all sorts of simple bistro foods.” The oxtail ravioli is “textbook,” the steak au poivre “tender,” and the chicken features dark meat “as juicy as chicken can get.” Still, the room is “dim,” and the some of the dishes gave him “a nagging déjà vu.” [TOC]

• Phil Vettel takes a trip to O’Hare to check out Wicker Park Seafood and Sushi, a new sushi restaurant which he thinks “might be the best” of the new airports eateries. The “uncommonly pretty restaurant,” features “surprisingly good” food. Best is the sashimi, which is cut thickly. The salads unfortunately featured “underdressed-to-a-fault greens.” Still, while it’s “not built for speed,” he thinks that “as airport oases go, you can’t ask for much more.” [Trib]

Sula and Bruno Take on The Hubbard Inn; Tamarkin Finds Simple Pleasures at