The Other Critics

Sifton Praises Red Rooster’s Diversity; Cheshes Impressed by Fedora’s ‘Big, Blustery Flavors’

Red Rooster Harlem is “perhaps the only restaurant in the city to serve, alongside corn bread and pickles, both cauliflower sautéed with black vinegar and Jamaican beef patties served with Mexican salsa verde,” writes Sam Sifton. “It is that rarest of cultural enterprises, one that supports not just the idea or promise of diversity, but diversity itself.” [NYT]
Related: The New Toque in Town

Fedora “serves Quebecois party food for epicurean hipsters that’s giddy, excessive and fun,” says Jay Cheshes. “Replacing the usual bar burger is a killer steak sandwich, with horseradish aioli and shoestring fries stuffed into the bun.” [TONY]

“While the city has had lots of German restaurants, never has there been anything quite like Heartbreak, which seeks to elevate the culinary status of peasant classics,” writes Robert Sietsema. “Our two favorite apps included a house-smoked trout [and]… a version of today’s endlessly iterated fatty pork belly.” [VV]

Minetta Tavern has “an impressively creative [brunch] menu featuring dishes far more ambitious than at many New York restaurants,” says Ed Levine. “Shirred Eggs and Black Truffles were magnificent — the mold coated in butter and Parmigiano Reggiano before it’s filled with eggs and cooked slowly over a water bath.” [Serious Eats NY]

Cocoron is “poised to change the city’s noodlescape, bringing soba into the culinary limelight,” says Lauren Shockey. “Each mouthful [of the cold natto soba] is a bounty of contrasting flavors and textures, although the slime-averse should probably stick with the cool oroshi soba ($8), with its lovely, peppery finish, thanks to a crowning of freshly grated radish.” [VV]

Bab al Yemen’s “greatest hit is haneeth, various cuts of slow-roasted lamb that falls off the bone, but, on a recent evening, this was perhaps outshone by a special of diced lamb over white rice called kabsah, the gamiest of the flock,” writes Nick Paumgarten. [NYer]

At Socarrat Paella Bar, “the crusted rice of the Cordero is a revelation. The extra sap of lamb fat and ooze of eggplant crisps the grains with a sublime meaty liqueur,” says Gael Greene. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at Socarrat Nolita, Now Serving Lobster Paella and Montaditos

Fish Tag “isn’t the worst restaurant of the year, but it’s certainly the most disappointing,” says Ryan Sutton. “Do not order mussels. You could be presented with a bowl of bland shellfish in an under-salted lamb broth that looks like dirty water.” [Bloomberg]

Sifton Praises Red Rooster’s Diversity; Cheshes Impressed by