Bagatelle
Photo: Shanna Ravindra
What’s Steve Cuozzo grumbling about today? Why, it’s the “clubification” of restaurants — places like the Trilby, the Darby, Lavo, and Beauty & Essex where “the food’s to keep you from passing out on an empty stomach.” In a rare moment of self-awareness, he writes: “But didn’t I know that Bagatelle was like that?” (No, seriously. Didn’t you?) “It’s the Meatpacking District! Everybody laugh at The Cuozz!” Ha. Okay. [NYP]
