The Other Critics

S.F., U.K. Critics Weigh In on the NYC Scene (to David Chang’s Displeasure)

A couple of out-of-town critics file reports on the New York dining scene today. First, Michael Bauer of Inside Scoop SF (and the San Francisco Chronicle) tries to visit the three Beard Awards semifinalists for Best New Restaurant, and though he gives up on Torrisi because the wait is too long (maybe he should’ve tried again via the publicist, like Michael Gross of Crain’s did at the Lion?), he notes that ABC Kitchen and Recette are far more casual than San Francisco contenders Prospect and Benu. (Apparently unaware of the toast trend, he says of ABC Kitchen, “I don’t know many places that have so many toast-based dishes”). Meanwhile Jay Rayner files on Má Pêche for The Guardian and incites David Chang’s Twitter ire.

In an otherwise positive review, he complains that instead of serving dessert, the restaurant prefers to “spotlight artisan cheeses.” He asks: “Really? Do you? Why? Courtesy of a rule banning all unpasteurised cheeses unless over 90 days old, America is where cheese goes to die.” Of having to beg for a Milk Bar cookie for dessert, he writes, “This is very silly. It’s very irritating. And utterly New York.” Turns out, Má Pêche started serving dessert after Rayner’s visit. Here’s what Chang had to tweet about that.

Dear Didn’t know fact checking was optional This is very silly. It’s irritating and utterly British. Bon chance motherfuckers!

@qualityrye @jayrayner1 oh i get it now, my bad…jay meant to post his review on yelp. jet lag must’ve confused him.

dear geoffrey rush u helped king george w his stammer, can u help rayner w his writing skills. we will get the food better, promise. xoxo dc

The Best New Restaurants in New York are casual [Inside Scoop SF]

S.F., U.K. Critics Weigh In on the NYC Scene (to David Chang’s