The Other Critics

Khyber Pass Pub Moves Meters With Gumbo; ‘Pleasant Surprises’ Await at Wayne’s White Dog Cafe

The Khyber’s Mark McKinney moves Craig LaBan’s meter with “black as midnight in Lafayette” gumbo, but disappoints with ribs that were “just burnt and unpleasantly chewy.” [Inquirer]

• Trey Popp checks out Marty Grims suburban White Dog Cafe and discovers the “sherry-kissed mushroom soup,” “exceptionally tender lamb chops over celery root puree,” and the “perfectly cooked lamb sliders” were “pleasant surprises.” [Phillymag]

Little Fish’s “poached to order” king crab in hot-and-sour broth is one of “the sweetest, butteriest things” Adam Erace has ever eaten, while the black cod with “buttery uni cream studded with meaty maitake mushrooms” was “the best single piece of fish” he’s “eaten in a year.” [Courier-Post]

Fathom Seafood House’s Fathom Fries were “dangerously addictive” for Philly Phoodie, and the Blue Bay mussels with coconut, panang curry, and lemongrass were “simple perfection.” [Philly Phoodie]

• The tripe served as part of Han Dynasty’s Monday night tasting was “flavorful and not too chewy” for Rowhome Eats, and the spicy dan dan noodles “received high honors.” [Rowhome Eats]

Khyber Pass Pub Moves Meters With Gumbo; ‘Pleasant Surprises’ Await