The Other Critics

Sifton Enjoys Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan; Cheshes Names Millesime ‘Most Ambitious New Brasserie’

At Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan, “there is remarkable flavor to be had amid the trial of getting the meat,” says Sam Sifton. “Best of all is the restaurant’s BBQ fish, a whole tilapia served crisp beneath heaps of yam and white potato, celery, peanuts, chili peppers and string beans, and bathed in a fiery sweet sauce ticked with star anise.” [NYT]

Lyon “got off to a bumpy start in November, with dishes strange and underperforming,” says Steve Cuozzo. “But the place has improved by the week. The nightly main-course specials are the kitchen’s real strength, and usually worth the extra cost.” [NYP]

Millesime “may be the most ambitious new brasserie to open in years,” writes Jay Cheshes. “While the menu features a few modern creations, like a warm Caesar salad with grilled lettuce hearts and smoky cod as an elegant stand-in for anchovies, Manrique’s cooking here is mostly a throwback.” [TONY]
Related: Platt on Ciano, Millesime

At Andre’s Café, “the wienerschnitzel ($15.95) is a magnificent piece of pounded veal,” says Robert Sietsema. “The chicken paprikash ($14.50) proved a disappointment. Other choices run to veal goulash, chicken cutlets done several ways, and peppers stuffed with the same meaty mixture as the cabbage.” [VV]

Ciano “caters to refined carnivores. There’s no steak on the menu; rather, the most expensive dish is chicken for two ($49),” says Ryan Sutton. “The two skinless breasts are far from boring, infused with an obscenely nutty alfalfa hay.” [Bloomberg]

At Fedora, “food prices may read steep, but turn out to be a value once you see the portion sizes,” writes Ed Levine. “Our favorite appetizer is the Crispy Pig’s Head ($12): crunchy nuggets of breaded and fried pig’s head tossed with a bright salad of peppery greens and a sauce gribiche made with hard boiled eggs heavily laced with capers and pickles.” [Serious Eats NY]
Related: First Look at Gabriel Stulman’s Fedora, Swinging Its Doors Open Tonight

Patricia’s “zuppa di funghi is thrilling,” says Gael Greene. “The house’s braised tripe is so remarkably tender in its fruity tomato-onion-garlic soffrito with mint and julienne of pecorino that even my guy, who doesn’t eat tripe, is devouring every morsel.” [Insatiable Critic]

At Annisa, “An amuse-bouche of unexpected complexity — for instance, mini escargot tarts strewn with Parmesan — is Lo’s gateway drug, and the grand meal that follows is progressively, and agreeably, addictive,” writes Mike Peed. [NYer]
Related: Anita Lo Buys Out Partner at Annisa

At Mary Queen of Scots, “the food bores more than it delights. The pork belly is good, exuding far more flavor than the $18 arugula and salmon salad that epitomizes spa cuisine,” says Lauren Shockey. “The staying power of this establishment remains questionable.” [VV]
Related: First Look at Mary Queen of Scots, a Scottish-French Brasserie in the Old Allen & Delancey Space

Sifton Enjoys Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan; Cheshes Names Millesime