The Other Critics

Virbila Dotes On Eveleigh; Los Angeles Mag Celebrates Xandros’ Last Dance

Photo: Eveleigh

Virbila hits hip Eveleigh, getting all cool on us with references to The Twitter and something for iPad called Flipboard. She notes, “this Aussie-accented newcomer brings a rustic chic setting, appealing French-Italian comfort food and a savvy cocktail and wine list to the party on Sunset.” She is very charmed by Nick Mathers, Lincoln Pilcher, and Nick Hatsatouris’ West Coast endeavor, which serves “the kind of food anybody would enjoy.” Anybody? It only gets two stars, but as Don and Phil would say, “I’m through with a’countin’ the stars above.” [L.A. Times]

Los Angeles magazine takes a look at Xandros, clarifying that it “ain’t Papa Cristo’s.” True…Papa Cristo’s is still open. Hey-o! [Los Angeles Magazine]

Starting with the furikake popcorn that sticks to your fingers and clothes, Jonathan Gold gives a lengthier look at A-Frame. Giving a shout to Vegemite, he loves the Thai-style chowder and sugar nuts, but still seems not to be as taken with the chicken as the rest of us. [L.A. Weekly]

Merrill Shindler looks at Maison Riz, the new occupant of the former New Tony’s space on the Redondo Pier. The atmosphere is substantially improved and “worthy of a Las Vegas casino.” The food brings Japanese-French “blendo” cooking back to the surface, he asserts, and if you skip the tasting menus, you might find delight in halibut sashimi, umami bouillabaisse, one of five Kobe entrees, or baked Chilean seabass in a rice cracker crust. [Daily Breeze]

Mr. Gold is quick to send wine back if it doesn’t please him, but is wary about sending food on a return trip to the kitchen, as it results in delays and overly corrective measures. But it is “well within your rights to send back food that has something seriously wrong with it.” [L.A. Weekly]

Virbila Dotes On Eveleigh; Los Angeles Mag Celebrates Xandros’ Last Dance